Cooking Creole Gumbo, accompanied by jazz

Creole Gumbo Cover Art

This gumbo cookbook, purchased at an estate sale last year, originally included two personalized jazz recordings. Speculation on the musicians and gift-givers Dottie and Russ has proved intriguing.

I’m not a big fan of jazz. It lacks lyrics and drones on and on. But, I’d gladly fork out $70 for a ticket to the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival just for the food and to solve a mystery.  Of course once there, I’d stroll over to hear some zydeco (it gets me dancing) or some gospel (so I can sing along) and seek out the mysterious Dottie and Russ.

Every year Jazz Fest is on my Go-To list.  Friends who lived there during the 1970s and the festival’s formative years first invited me. I never made it, but after reading Julie Smith’s Jazz Funeral mystery filled with thrilling chase scenes around the festival stages and interesting musicians, I vowed to go. Just not this year. Instead, I listened to live performances online thanks to WWOZ Radio – the Guardians of the Groove station featured in the HBO Tremé series.

The festival’s food lineup keeps the Creole and Cajun flavors honest and authentic with vendors only from Louisiana, hailing from exotic sounding places like Golden Meadow, River Ridge and St. Francisville as well as the New Orleans area. The dishes are even more exotic – quail, pheasant and andouille gumbo, muffuletta, crawfish bread, jambalaya, alligator pie, sweet potato pone, red beans and rice, boudin balls, shrimp, sausage and okra gumbo, shrimp po’boy, couchon du lait,  beignets, pralines and lots of sno-balls (yes, they’re ”balls” not “cones” in New Orleans).

And while I listened to WWOZ, I flipped through the pages of the best jazz gumbo book ever written, a gift from a couple I never met, Dottie and Russ.  Creole Gumbo and All That Jazz by the late Howard Mitcham features great recipes interspersed with vignettes on jazz musicians, song lyrics, historic photos, and Mitcham’s own illustrations and woodcuts.

I found my copy of the cookbook at an estate sale and it comes with an intriguing story. The book was a Christmas gift in 1987, according to the personal note inside. It was presented with two tapes recorded to follow the format of the cookbook to get the recipient “dancing in the kitchen.”  The gumbo recipes are paired with music by Al Hirt and Pete Fountain but the note implies the gift givers recorded it themselves.  How I wish I had the tapes (and a tape player) to know which numbers the clever Dottie and Russ chose for the following recipe. I’m intrigued, too, by their identity. The signature doesn’t match Dottie West, but could it be Dottie Rambo singing with Russ Taff? Dottie Rambo, the mother of Reba McIntyre? Or is it Dottie and Russ, the starving musicians who lived upstairs? It’s a mystery.

Making gumbo is no mystery to Mitcham, however. In Chapter 3 he calls Creole gumbo “la soupe divine.” He describes creating it like improvisational early jazz — a lot of blue notes, flatted fifths, discords, and glissandos for spice. The chapter includes six gumbo recipes – oyster, crab, crab-hominy, seafood-sausage-chicken, shrimp-tasso and creole.  His recipe usually takes a crew to make, but you can make my version on your own with frozen seafood and boxed seafood stock, plus some long-playing music.Mictcham Creole Gumbo

I could drive to New Orleans and back in the time it takes to make this recipe. I’ll bet, however, it took Dottie and Russ even longer to record such a loving Christmas gift for friends.

WWOZ 300 years

Check out WWOZ’s link to jazz and the Tricentennial of New Orleans. https://www.wwoz.org/tricentennial

 

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Celebrating 300 Years of New Orleans with 300 recipes and Jewish Gumbo

Jewish Gumbo

That’s matzoh balls, not boudin balls, in this bowl of chicken and sausage gumbo, made from a delicious no-pork recipe adapted from Matzoh Ball Gumbo: Culinary Tales of the Jewish South.

I’ve been struggling to finish Marcie Cohen Ferris’ Matzoh Ball Gumbo: Culinary Tales of the Jewish South for four months. It’s not quite as entertaining as the title. In fact, it reads more like a dissertation – footnotes, ibids, op cits, et ceteras. But Chapter 3 – New Orleans and Natchez – has made reading the history of southern Jewish cooking worthwhile.

Jewish Gumbo Amazon

Ferris’ book is available on Amazon.

In my quest to collect 300 gumbo recipes to celebrate New Orleans’ 300 years, I’m cooking Jewish Chicken and Sausage Gumbo from Chapter 3 and serving it with Creole Matzoh Balls.

Ferris dates Jewish cooking in New Orleans to 1826 when Jacob de Silva Solis ground meal to make his own matzoh for Passover. Though French Colonial codes prevented Jews from settling the colony, the Encyclopedia of Southern Jewish Communities  lists Jewish settlers early on. Isaac Monsanto and his business partner Manuel de Britto arrived in New Orleans from Curacao in 1757 as traders. They faced no opposition for a dozen years until a new governor exiled them. In fact, some of the Monsantos moved to Pensacola (near my home), before they eventually returned to New Orleans.  Though Jews haven’t lived in New Orleans all 300 years, Jewish cooking there evolved quickly as African American cooks taught their employers how to use local ingredients to abide by religious rules and traditions. By the time trade increased and kosher ingredients became more available, the adapted recipes had become family mainstays. Ferris’ book explains how forbidden foods like shrimp, crabs and oysters found a place at Jewish tables despite the lack of fins and scales.

I know very little about Jewish cuisine. In Texas, years ago, when a new neighbor was moving in, I invited her over for lunch. I’d baked a large ham the night before and was serving fresh tomato and ham and sandwiches on white bread slathered with mayonnaise. It never dawned on me she might be Jewish, but she spared me the embarrassment and said ham sandwiches were okay with her, just like pepperoni on her pizza. We became good friends and it wasn’t long before I was attending her son’s Bar Mitzvah.  The food at his reception, a Jewish chicken salad recipe, and an Episcopal Vacation Bible School program featuring honey nut bars from Moses’ time, rounded out my Jewish culinary knowledge. Reading Ferris’ book has enlightened my kosher cooking world and taught me much about Jewish tradition, dietary restrictions and social adaptation.  This gumbo, inspired by Ferris’ Louisiana friend Denise Broussard, is sweet, spicy and delicious.

CHICKEN AND SAUSAGE GUMBO

Adapted from Marcie Cohen Ferris (Makes 8 servings)

12 oz. frozen sliced okra, thawed and well drained
13.5 oz. spicy kosher beef sausage sliced in ½ inch rounds (I used Hillshire Farm Beef Hot  Links, which taste like pork andouille)
2 lbs. boneless, skinless chicken thighs cut in 1 ½ inch chunks
1 large sweet yellow onion, chopped
1 large green bell pepper, chopped
1 ½ cup celery, chopped
2 TSP dried thyme* (Ferris’ recipe calls for kosher salt, pepper and cayenne but I omitted them because the sausage has plenty of each)300 Medallion2
32 oz. chicken broth
14.5 oz. – can diced tomatoes with tomato juice
1 cup water
3 TBSP tomato paste
4 to 6 fresh garlic cloves, minced
Oven-Baked Roux (click for recipe)
Creole Matzoh Balls (click for recipe)

  1. In a medium skillet, heat 3 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat. Add the okra and cook, stirring often until tender and starting to brown. 12 – 15 minutes. Set aside.
  2. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add sausage and cook, stirring often, until browned, about 7 minutes. Remove sausage to paper towels to drain grease, then place in bowl. Add 1 tablespoon more oil to drippings; season chicken chunks with thyme. Lightly brown half of the chicken in drippings, about 4 minutes, and place in bowl with sausage, brown rest of the chicken and remove to bowl.
  3. Using 1 tablespoon of the chicken-sausage drippings, sauté the bell pepper, celery and onion until translucent and tender, about 6 minutes. Remove from grease.
  4. Add bell pepper, onions and celery to the hot roux in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Blend and cook about a minute. Slowly add chicken stock, tomatoes with juice, tomato paste and water. When gently boiling, add 4 – 6 cloves minced fresh garlic. Bring to a boil, stirring often.
  5. Add chicken, sausage and okra. Return to a boil. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer, stirring occasionally. Cook about 45 minutes.
  6. Top with Creole Matzoh Balls or serve over steamed white rice.

I can’t fathom the difficulties Jewish women faced 250 years ago trying to prepare a strict religious diet in a French colony, but I did get an inkling of it. Even with modern grocery chains and space-age freezer sections, I couldn’t find “kosher” beef sausage after searching three different stores. I finally opted for spicy beef hot links without pork fat or pork casing.  Somehow I feel confident my Jewish neighbor would have approved. However, I will admit secretly wishing I had a Kosher kitchen. After finishing the gumbo and matzoh balls, almost every pot, pan, and bowl were dirty. Oh, to have another set on standby.

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Gumbo for 300

fireworks-isolated-on-black-background_BDFwgld3Mg.jpgI’ve celebrated a 1976 bicentennial, a 1986 sesquicentennial, a 2013 quincentennial, but the “tennial” that really excites me is this year’s tricentennial of the City of New Orleans – 300 years of delicious food. Well, 296 years if the legend of the Frying Pan Revolt of 1722 is true. Since that year, gumbo, a dish mirroring the culture of the city – blending Spanish, French, Native American and African – has ruled the menu of the Crescent City.

Plenty of culinary events are scheduled for the tricentennial, though that’s not unusual for a city with scores of festivals based on food and restaurants numbering over a 1000. Some food writers estimate more than 1400 restaurants are operating today, and The Times-Picayune reports more restaurants opened in 2017 than closed. Best of all, neighborhood restaurants still thrive.

The city’s contribution to the international kitchen is remarkable.  New Orleanians 300 Medallion2invented their own cocktail, the Sazarac; dessert, bananas Foster; sandwiches, the muffuletta and po’boy;  and a signature appetizer, oysters Rockefeller.  I always associate Doberge Cake, pralines, King Cake, beignets and chicory coffee with New Orleans. Though those didn’t originate there, they are best produced there.  It’s no surprise many believe gumbo was invented there. Historical documents support the belief and cite 24 varieties of gumbo on an official menu in 1803.

For the city’s Big 300, I’m collecting 300 gumbo recipes in a year. You’ll recognize them with this art, inspired by La Flamme, a 1970 sorority cookbook from New Orleans. The first two recipes come from the newly published The Fonville Winans Cookbook (LSU Press 2017). Winans was the internationally famous Louisiana photographer who preserved the culture of the state through black and white images, from the bayous to boulevards to brides.

Fonville ccover

Reprinted from The Fonville Winans Cookbook by Melinda Risch Winans and Cynthia LeJeune Nobles, by permission of Louisiana State University Press.

Winans once said if he hadn’t been a photographer he would have become a chef. His love for cooking led to a noonday cooking segment on a Baton Rouge TV station. Co-written by his daughter-in-law Melinda Risch Winans with Cynthia LeJeune Nobles, the book features previously unpublished photos and recipes, culled from over 250 handwritten ones he collected while traveling the state.

Just reading the recipes, you can see how personal these gumbos were to Fonville Winans as a cook. He perfected them, right down to the necessary cooking utensils. These two are unique in that they both include “dry shrimp” — and one surprised me with the addition of bitters.  Fon's Studio Gumbo

Winans Dry Shrimp GumboCollecting 300 recipes seems a bit daunting, now that I think of it.  I’ve collected a baker’s dozen so far from fellow writers, friends and neighbors and each is somewhat unique, whether it’s an ingredient, a cooking tip or an anecdote.  I suspect the gumbo world is waiting on your recipe, so here’s my plea to followers, visitors and readers – please share your favorite gumbo recipe and the memories that go with it.

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East Texas Gumbo:  Memorable Recipes from a Mellow Voice

Horace McQueen

Agricultural journalist and cookbook author, Horace McQueen was honored by Texas A & M as an outstanding alumni. This You Tube video from A & M tells his story, while the cookbook  he co-wrote with his sister brings back memories.

I’ve only known two people named Horace, and one I didn’t really know, but his mellow, deep Texas twang filled my home every morning while I corralled three boys for school and he read the Farm and Ranch News for KTVT television in Tyler, Texas.  The day Bookbub offered a cookbook written by Horace McQueen, I knew it had to be my favorite agricultural journalist.

Southern Heirloom Cooking 9781680991314

Reprinted from Southern Heirloom Cooking by Norma Jean McQueen and Horace McQueen by permission of Good Books, an imprint of Skyhorse Publishing, Inc.

And sure enough, Southern Heirloom Cooking: 200 Treasured Feel-Good Recipes is co-authored by McQueen with his older sister Norma Jean McQueen Haydel. The book offers me a walk down memory lane with the taste of East Texas. Most folks don’t think of East Texas as having a flavor profile, but it does.  A long cry from stereotypical Texas, East Texas is piney woods, roses, rolling hills, tomato fields, pecan orchards, and black-eyed pea and sweet onion festivals. It’s country cooking, fresh vegetables, homemade jelly, BBQ, fried catfish and Albert’s Hot Sauce.  East Texas is so close to Louisiana that Cajun and Creole flavors waft over the state line and into Texas kitchens.

The recipes the two have assembled remind me of 17 years calling East Texas home. For dozens of dishes, I recall familiar faces, pot luck dinners, backyard barbecues, tomato gardens, berry picking, church bake-offs and favorite restaurants. Texas Caviar,  Black-Eyed Pea Salad, Cheese Garlic Grits, Fried Green Tomatoes, Chicken Fried Steak, Double-Dipped Fried Chicken, Boudain, Tamales, Chicken Spaghetti, King Ranch Chicken, Zucchini Bread, Texas Buttermilk Pie, Dewberry (like blackberries) Cobbler, Lemon Squares, Fig Preserves, Hot Pepper Jelly, Watermelon Rind Pickles and Venison Sausage all transport a friendship memory.

Though titled “Southern,” this is truly an East Texas recipe collection with the expected dash of Louisiana. Along with plenty of seafood recipes, they’ve included instructions on how to make a roux plus two different gumbos, all with unique East Texas ingredients. It’s the first roux I’ve ever made that specifically uses self-rising flour.  Their mother’s chicken gumbo offers a chance to add oysters, and the seafood gumbo calls for hard-cooked eggs, liquid crab boil and a jalapeño.  Now that’s real East Texas cooking.

McQueenSeafood gumbo Recipe

McQueen Chicken gumbo Recipe

Horace McQueen died in 2009, but anyone who ever listened to KTVT in the morning will well remember his wake-up call,   “A pleasant good morning to you, hope everything’s off to a fine start in your house this morning.” Thanks for the memories and the recipes, Horace.

McQueen Chicken Gumbo

The chicken gumbo is delicious, but I chose not to add the canned oysters.

 

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The Frying Pan Revolt – A New Orleans Culinary Legend

NOLANew Orleans is turning 300 this year and the travel industry is celebrating.  American Airlines featured the Crescent City’s birthday in its March issue of American Way, the slick magazine tucked in the back of the passenger seat.  Along with the crossword and ads for doggie gates and neck cushions, is a classy, nine-page illustrated timeline highlighting the city’s history. But the travel writers missed the mark on gumbo.

IMG_3733

American Airlines’ in-flight magazine features nine pages of New Orleans history.

When I read the entire 52-word entry, I knew something was awry. The writers sang the praises of a cook who probably never visited New Orleans. And then it  took me three-days to get the airline humor in the headline “Gumbo Jets.” Pilots and flight stewards were probably rolling in the aisles while I was scratching my head. Finally I figured it out — “Gumbo Jets” is a play on “Jumbo Jets.” Ha!

And after the headline, came mention of Chef Abby Fisher, whose name didn’t ring a bell.  I lived in New Orleans, I study their history, I know their legendary cooks and cookbooks.  Fortunately Wikipedia (move over Thomas Dewey) straightened me out. Abby Fisher was a South Carolina slave who, when freed, moved to Mobile, Alabama, and later to San Francisco where she wrote a cookbook.  The point is, why use an 1880’s San Francisco cookbook author, even if she is the first African American to write a cookbook, when New Orleans had its own Frying Pan Revolt (aka Petticoat Insurrection) and cooking school 150 years before that? Now that’s a cooking revolution! Put that on a timeline!

Bienville, who with his brother d’Iberville, founded  Pascagoula, Ocean Springs, and Biloxi, Mississippi, and Mobile, Alabama, is best known as the Father of New Orleans. His New Orleans home was site of the Frying Pan Revolt, which led to the popularity of gumbo – so legend has it.

The story goes like this — in 1722 about fifty housewives, brandishing cooking spoons and beating frying pans, stormed the New Orleans home of the French Governor Jean-Baptise LeMoyne de Bienville protesting the lack of familiar ingredients. They were tired of cooking cornmeal mush. Bienville put the angry women under the tutelage of his housekeeper, Madame Langlois, who knew the cooking secrets of the Choctaw squaws. She taught them how to make gumbo out of local ingredients. and even opened a cooking school. She’s known as the mother of Creole cuisine. Thanks to her, gumbo “jetted” into popularity.

By 1803, Pierre Clement de Laussat, the last French governor before the Louisiana Purchase, hosted a soiree in which 24 different gumbos were prepared. Though the Frying Pan Revolt was an event much talked about, it was never documented, but Laussant’s soiree was. Now that’s a lasting revolution worthy of American Airlines’ notice. 

Sometimes legend is just better than fact – and New Orleans is filled with legends – 300 years’ worth. Book your flight today!


Mrs. Fishers cover

The PDF of Abby Fisher’s cookbook What Mrs. Fisher Knows About Old Southern Cooking, Soups, Pickles, Preserves, Etc. — with three gumbo recipes — is free online at the University of California archives or you can buy it on Amazon.

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Now You’re Cooking: A Dozen Range-free Meals

House Fire

Last week’s house fire in my neighborhood reaffirmed my belief in calling emergency when I smell a gas leak. Though I don’t know the cause of that fire, it’s the second home in two years to burn within two miles of me.

I love the phrase “Now You’re Cooking,” a version of the advertising slogan “Now You’re Cooking with Gas.” It’s been ricocheting in my brain since midnight Saturday, February 17 when firefighters arrived at our house. Four of them, decked out in full protective, heat-resistant firefighting regalia, stomped through the house, one brandishing a gas sensing, beeping wand. The chief raised his visor to announce the gas company was on the way. The gas guy made the decision – contrary to the 1940s slogan — I am NOT cooking with gas.

My range won two of the dreaded red tags from the gas department. When the first one failed inspection, the inspector flipped it over and issued another.

My gas range earned two dreaded red tags from the gas department. When the first repair failed inspection, the inspector flipped the tag over and issued another.

It’s been three weeks since my Whirlpool oven-cooktop leaked the telling odor of gas and was cited with a “red tag” for a faulty regulator. The first repairman’s attempt resulted in a lack of confidence on my part. The second repairman’s attempt — tightening a bolt — resulted in a second red tag citation from the gas department.  No cooking with gas until the magic sniffing-wand doesn’t beep. As I awaited the new part, due to arrive via Repairman #2, I realized what a learning experience this has been.

I prefer cooking with gas even though I have a 36-inch wide cabinet laden with small electrical appliances. I rarely take one out. I detest counter clutter, and one coffeemaker is about all my patience can endure. But when the stove went out, the gadgets came out of hiding. Each time I thought I couldn’t cook dinner, Son #3 reminded me of yet another plug-in device enabling me to stay in the kitchen. The men around here don’t take to grilling outside when in it’s the thirties.

Out of the woes of desperation, I surprised myself daily when I came up with another way to cook without an oven.

 

12 Range-free Meals

  1. Lamb Chops on the turbo-broiler (counter-top Galloping Gourmet Convention Oven) served with couscous prepared using the Electric Kettle
  2. Pot roast with potatoes and carrots browned in the Electric Skillet and cooked in the Crock Pot
  3. Fifteen-Bean Cajun Soup with Andouille Sausage ala’ Crock Pot
  4. Beef and Vegetable Kabobs on the grill (the temperature did get into the 70s)
  5. Shrimp Etouffee from the Electric Skillet, served with garlic bread in the Toaster Oven
  6. Red Beans (from canned beans) heated on the burner on the grill served with rice from the Rice Cooker
  7. Chicken Tortilla Soup from the Crock Pot
  8. Stir-fried Pork and Vegetables (Electric Skillet) with yellow saffron rice (Rice Cooker)
  9. Crock Pot carnitas served with tortillas (warmed on the Pancake Griddle)
  10. Spaghetti (boiled on the gas burner on the grill) and sauce (heated in Microwave)
  11. Crock Pot Chicken Curry with coconut, peanut & raisin toppings with Basmati Rice (Rice Cooker)
  12. Big-Three-Small Appliance Meal: Chinese Pepper Steak (Electric Skillet), China Doll Rice (Rice Cooker) and Vegetarian Egg Rolls (Toaster Over)

I take these red tags and the smell of gas pretty seriously, especially since three nights ago a home in our neighborhood burned down (well, the flaming roof collapsed on the pilings and melted the entire structure). I don’t know the cause of that fire, but I’m not taking any chances. Having lived in East Texas, I know the horror story of the 1937 New London School gas explosion. The tragic deaths of 295 children resulted in legislation requiring the addition of isopropyl mercaptan to natural gas. That’s why leaking gas stinks.

When Repairman #2 arrived with the parts, he amended his diagnosis. After his wise counsel, I declared my old oven “dead” and bought a new gas range, due to arrive today for a total of 26 range-free days in the kitchen. Tonight we’re having pizza – hopefully browned to perfection in my new gas oven.

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No frybread for my Thanksgiving

Fall dinnerWhen I heard The Sioux Chef, Sean Sherman, describing his new book about “indigenous people food” on BBC World radio, I was fascinated.  Somehow I missed the Native American indigenous food movement crisscrossing the U.S.  Even Native American restaurants are popping up. But the Native Café on Pensacola Beach is not a Native American restaurant, no matter what Google says.

The radio interview resonated with me since my latest food interest deals with genetics and food preferences. Native Americans contributed the sassafras to make filé for gumbo, so maybe the smidgen of Choctaw in my DNA predetermines my preference for gumbo.  Plus, I love Indian frybread and just about anything made with corn.

Sherman, an Ocala Lakota Sioux who grew up on the Pine Ridge reservation in South Dakota, now lives in Minnesota where his business The Sioux Chef  is preparing indigenous foods freshly foraged from the region.  The foods he cooks are pre-colonization, before the European influence – no beef, pork, chicken, wheat flour, refined sugar or dairy products. Instead, it’s bison (buffalo), venison (deer), elk, fish, berries, herbs, ginger, flowers, pine, heirloom seeds, squash, wild grain, corn and foods native to a particular region.

Sioux ChefBut no frybread.  Sherman says it’s not genuine Native American food. Frybread evolved when Native Americans moved to reservations and the government dispensed rations of lard and wheat flour.  It was starve or figure out what to make with those ingredients. Such ration foods may have increased the rates of obesity and diabetes among Native Americans.  Sherman’s philosophy, along with others in the movement, uses regional native foods to produce a healthier, lower glycemic diet.

Sherman hopes to one day see indigenous food education and training centers, food trucks and restaurants designed for specific areas and cultures. He’s already up and running in Minnesota. I think if he wants an indigenous food revolution, however, he ought to include Pow Wows and Indian Casinos. That’s where most of us get our impressions of Native American food.

Take the 47th Annual Poarch Creek Indian Pow Wow in Atmore, Alabama during Thanksgiving. According to Festival.net, 20,000 people are expected to be there, and they’ll be chowing down as they watch the colorful parades and dancers. Plus visitors will be forming opinions about Alabama’s only federally recognized tribe. The Poarch Creek are truly indigenous. Despite the Indian Removal Act of 1830, they remained on their tribal lands and have lived together for almost 200 years in and around the Alabama reservation. But when it comes to the Pow Wow, vendors will be IMG_5420serving foods like BBQ sandwiches, hamburgers, hotdogs, chicken tenders, roasted corn, turkey dinners, ribeye steak sandwiches, loaded baked potatoes, pork skins, Indian Tacos and Kona Ice. Indian Tacos are about as native to Alabama as Kona Ice is to Hawaii.  

Casino restaurants could be another moving force for an indigenous food revolution. The National Indian Gaming Commission reported a Gross Gaming Revenue totaling $31.2 billion in 2016. According to 500nations.com, 474 Indian gaming centers operate in the U.S. Thanks to the Florida Seminoles who established the first Native American casino in 1979, casinos now operate in 28 of the 50 states.

But when I close my eyes and remember food choices at a casino in Oklahoma, I remember an all-you-can-eat buffet – followed by a bad stomach ache.

Despite my experience, casinos have a reputation for fabulous holiday buffets. And while they’ve got the nomenclature down, like Talking Stick Resort or Wandering Horse Buffet, the horse wandered pretty far off the Arizona reservation to cook cheesy enchiladas and fresh sushi. Casino diners could have a much more authentic experience savoring recipes like The Sioux Chef’s  Maple Glazed Roasted Acorn Squash with Pepitas served with a glass of Cedar-Maple iced tea.

At least the menu at the posh Poarch Creek Wind Creek Casino in Alabama hints at indigenous food. They offer fried oyster salad, seafood gumbo (with filé) and sweet corn chowder. I just refuse to count the Buffalo Wings.


Eater.com posted this Facebook video of Sean Sherman cooking with native ingredients.

 

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